After watching giant tortoises cavorting in
the woods yesterday afternoon I was hopeful that we might see something a
little more exciting. Today we’re scheduled
to go snorkelling. The boat has shorty wetsuits, masks, snorkels and fins and
most decide to use them. My son, who
visited the Galapagos a couple of years earlier, warned me that the water is “cool” and
suggested I take my full 3 mm wetsuit – and I am glad I did. Sid, resplendent in his red mankini (or
“budgie smuggler” as the Australians call it), says he doesn’t need anything
else to keep warm. I have a feeling there’s going to be a very small budgie in there once he hits the water. I
would include a picture of him in it, but I've been warned about putting
inappropriate images on the web. Several others, including Marla, the girl
from Richmond are also swimming in their regular attire. I have included a picture of her.(Note the shark below her).
I have my own mask, because without a
prescription mask I’m totally blind in the water and have no idea where I
am. The last time I went diving without one
I followed two large manta rays for half an hour thinking they were members of
my group. |
| pink breasted boobies |
Our first snorkelling site is Cerro Brujo,
also known as the “Sleeping Lion” (check out the picture) on San Cristobal’s
north coast. When you get closer you can
see that it’s actually two little islets with the lions head a separate
pinnacle. We’re going to snorkel through
the gap between the two islets. Mr.
Sandhu, lacking any swim gear of his own, opts to stay on the dinghy. Sid graciously offers him one of his
mankinis; but the old guy wisely declines – less the sight of an 83 year old
overweight Indian guy in a budgie smuggler cause us all to put our eyes out – or go
insane.
 |
| White tip shark |
The first thing I notice is a six-foot
white-tip shark looking backup at me. This is okay - I actually like sharks –
having dived with them on numerous occasions and dealt with them in banks. However many of the group haven’t – and make
like jet skis as they race back to the boat - until Pedro, our naturalist and guide, calms
them down telling them reef sharks are essentially harmless – most of the time.
Looking down I see perhaps fifty more of
them swimming thirty or forty feet below
me. I also see diamond rays, and turtles.
This is perhaps the best snorkelling I've
ever seen – and I've been in a lot of places.
After about an hour we head back to the
boat, warm showers and drinks before supper.
OFF TO ESPANOLOA
During the night we have moved from San Cristobal to the island of Espanola – the southernmost island of the Galapagos. If we were impressed with the previous day’s marine life, we’re told we’ll be equally impressed with the land animals on this island.
We disembark from the boat and get into the
dinghies for the five minute trip to Gardner Beach which we’re told is
considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the Galapagos Islands.
As we approach the beach it seems to be
covered in basking fat tourists – it’s only as we get closer we determine these
are not tourists, but California sea lions enjoying the beach – hundreds of
them!
 |
| Gardner Beach |
Our arrival doesn’t bother them in the
least. Pedro issues a stern warning that
we’re not under any circumstances to touch the animals. The message seems to be lost on Sid who has
wandered off and is lying next to a particularly large sea lion taking a
“selfie” picture. This
results in yet another reprimand for Sid who seems to shrug them off like water on a blue footed boobie.
There are several large marine iguanas and Sid’s
attempt to get friendly with them is instantly rebuffed. One of them bobs his head at Sid a few
times and sneezes right into his face.
Pedro tells Sid not to take it personally. He explains this is how iguanas expel the
salt they've absorbed swimming in the ocean – ort of like a lizard
salt-shaker. Sid is not impressed with
Pedro’s explanation and comments that
the iguana might make a fine pair of
shoes.
 |
| future pair of shoes |
Gardner Beach has one other endearing
feature: flies – billions of them. No
matter where we walk we’re covered with them.
I slather myself in insect repellent – it only attracts more. They look at insect repellent as people marinade.
“You
know Pedro’s right,” comments Sid
sneezing out a large fly that has climbed up his nose. “If it wasn't for the sea lions,
lizards, and flies this place would be a bloody paradise.”
We take the requisite number of pictures
and retreat back to the boat with a black cloud of flies trailing in our wake.
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