GUAM IS NOT PART OF MICRONESIA
Guam International Airport, or Antonio B Won Pat as it is sometimes known, is a huge contrast to Saipan’s sleepy little airport. The airport in Guam is a “serious” American airport with everything you’d expect to find in an airport in Los Angeles or Miami – namely security – lots of security. While Guam is geographically port of the Northern Mariana Islands – along with Saipan and Rota – it is NOT part of Micronesia. It’s American – like Puerto Rico – people born here are American citizens – same as if they were born on the mainland – except they can’t vote in American presidential elections – many here think that’s a plus – given the choices.TRAVELING WITH MY SON
Upon my
arrival I’m confronted by a wall of counters manned by men in uniforms with
guns strapped on their belts – welcome to homeland security. After having my eyes scanned and fingers
printed I proceed to get my bags and look for my son, Elan, who in a moment of
weakness he’ll soon regret, has decided to join
me for this part of the trip.
Someone
asked me what it’s like travelling with my son.
I told them it’s like travelling alone and it’s more expensive. The biggest problem is getting through the
morning. Elan is not a morning person,
and we quickly learned not to talk to him, make eye contact, or any other form
of contact until he’s had his breakfast – after which he reverts back to being
a normal human being.
[N.J.: Elan has his own version of what it’s like
travelling with dad – which probably could fill volumes – I’m lucky he’s an
engineer – not a writer]
The
airport is quite large and it takes me a while to track down Elan and we rent a
vehicle and head off to our motel.
Guam is
home to several large military bases – the most noteworthy is Anderson Air
Force Base, which given the unrest in the China Seas is a major base.
Guam is
not a pretty island like Saipan. The whole island basically is one large
military base and most of the other infrastructure services it – which means
there are countless bars and poker clubs.
It has very little of the charm of its sister islands – but it is a
major jumping off point to other Micronesian islands – hence our visit there to
make our connection to Palau in two days time.
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Inn on the Ba |
Elan and
I spent the first day driving completely around the Guam –given Elan’s built in
sense of direction we only had to do the trip once. At one point we stopped on a beautiful beach
that was completely deserted. We
followed the beach around to where it ended at a sheer cliff. Up on the cliff was a rickety boardwalk that
followed the cliff around the corner to a secluded cove.
The "backdoor" catwalk |
IT'S LIKE APOCALYPSE NOW
Upon turning the corner we came across an “authentic” tourist village – evidently we had stumbled across a little used back access to it. It was like that moment in Apocalypse Now when the boat turns a corner in the river and comes upon a USO stage in full light – complete with playboy bunnies.
This
village was in full swing with two busloads of Japanese tourist who were being
herded into a palapa for a floor show that featured “fire dancers.” Nobody seemed to notice we weren't part of
the tour group (“funny you guys don’t look Japanese”) so we just sort of tagged
along.
"Butter Fingers" the fire juggler |
Water Buffalo wash |
VISITING SOICHI YOKI'S MAN CAVE
The next
day was spent covering Guam’s tourist sights which broke down to a lover’s
leap. [all these islands seem to have high places where people used to take a
dive off of – now days they still do, but they’re usually strapped to a hang
glider]. The other main tourist
attraction was the cave where a Japanese soldier, Soichi Yokoi, hung out for 28
years after the war ended before he finally “surrendered.” I guess the thought
of all that back pay accumulating eventually got to him. (The princely sum of
three hundred bucks!) A little known
fact is the Yoko Ono is named after him (she bears a striking resemblance to
him).
Soichi's cave |
The "professional" fly fluffer |
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